During our stay in Darwin we managed to do some sightseeing in the local area as well as fix a few problems we had encountered with the yacht. Priority was the water pump that was refusing to pump airless water, this was replaced with a new piston type and I tried without much success to unblock the rear toilet outlet hose. The main sail was repaired enough to get us home to Perth.
While in Darwin we purchased a washing machine that has a 2.2 KG load and will run off an inverter as it draws only 280 Watts even on the 800 RPM spin cycle. The purchase was forced on us in a way. Very close to the Marina was a public laundry. Jan was doing our washing one day when a couple of young lads in a camper van pulled up outside and proceeded to remove every bit of clothing and bedding from within the van. During Jan’s conversation with the guys about the size of their load and the 4 machines it occupied it was revealed that the van was infected with bed bugs!!!!!!!!!!! Hmmmm end of public laundry for us!!
We departed Tipperary Waters Marina prepared for the leg to Broome where we would stop for 36 Hrs for a rest and to re-fuel if required, we would then sail the leg to Carnarvon. Departing Darwin was achieved without drama and the course set for the Westwards crossing of the rest of the “Top End” The wind was not playing the game and was on our nose the whole time so we were forced to motor sail much of this leg. Once again the Australian Maritime Patrol Aircraft over flew us every day to keep us company. At about 3.00 AM on the 3rd night there was a loud bang and we both thought we had hit something in the water, an inspection of the hull was carried out and nothing unusual was found. At first light however we noticed the radar reflector was lying on the deck, so that explained the loud bang.
We had pre booked a mooring in Roebuck bay Broome mainly as there is a 9 Meter tide range there. Arriving into Roebuck bay in 25 Knots of wind at 2.00AM we proceeded to the co-ordinates we had for the mooring only to find a 60 Foot fishing boat firmly attached to it, bummer! So we had to anchor for the rest of the night. The following day revealed our plight, heavy seas, 25 Knot winds and 2 miles to shore. We tried to launch our dingy but every time we tried the thing got blown under the bucking stern of Fully Involved. A friendly passing fisherman in a 25 Foot Aluminium boat offered us a ride to shore. Once ashore we arranged for fuel, did some quick shopping for milk and bread as well as thanking the local VMR staff for providing a listening watch over us on the leg. The following day we proceeded to the ships jetty to take on fuel. Again we were subjected to 2.5 Meter seas and 20 Knot winds during the whole operation. We took on 400 Litres of diesel and in the process got our toe rail wood crushed by the unforgiving jetty. We had wanted to fill the 10 jerry cans but decided against it due to the conditions, as soon as we had fuelled we were off. The log shows Darwin to Broome was a total distance of 818 NM done in 10 days, so no sailing speed records were established on this leg!
Departing, what to us is the most unfriendly yacht port we had visited so far, Broome soon faded in the distance as we once again continued our progress West. Again we found ourselves head to wind so we set up our ¾ NM tacks to make progress to the way point. Even doing this our speed over ground at times dropped to 1 Knot so the engine was used to give us water over the rudder and steerage. The AIS was again working overtime as we neared Port Hedland and Dampier. We were tracking the maximum 100 ships the system can handle. At one point we counted 28 ships anchored off Port Hedland with another 6 on their way bow to stern and a full harbour of 8 ships taking on cargo. But more amazing was the flagrant abuse of channel 16 by the crews of these ships. They used 16 to carry on conversations (NOT in English) between each other as well as playing music at night for at time 30 Minutes. Now I know Australia relies heavily on exports to these countries and they do own some of the mines, but I strongly suggest the authorities educate them on the correct use of Ch 16 before some poor soul who is in real strife has an accident as he couldn’t get his May day thru...End of soap box....
Dampier was the same as Hedland ship number wise and, sorry to say, radio wise. Only once during the crossing of these 2 big congested shipping areas did we have cause to use the radio to call up a Tug as he was closing in on us to within 2.5 NM at night with no moon. He kindly did the right thing altered course and pulled away from us.
Once past Dampier we passed north of the Montebello Islands and headed for North West cape. Turning almost due south at the cape we hugged the coast until we were abeam the Dampier salt mine at Coral bay then tacked out away from the main land for our last night at sea on this leg, this would give us a good approach course for Carnarvon.. First light found us in Shark Bay and just 18 miles out from Carnarvon and surrounded by whales and dolphins. We stopped for an hour or so in absolute becalmed conditions and watched the show being put on for us, one whale we watched tail slapped the water 24 times in one session and many more were broaching the water, we actually heard them calling to each other with that haunting sound you only get to hear on the TV or films, a truly special time. We proceeded to the markers at the entrance to the fascine where our friend Mark was waiting for us in his power boat to guide us into this interesting piece of waterway where we were to moor on his mooring for a few days. The fascine is right on the edge of town so a short dingy ride and walk and there are all the shops, banks etc.
We are hoping to depart Carnarvon for Geraldton on the 1st Nov as a good weather window is coming. Our friend Mark will join us on the leg and maybe even carry on down to Perth, this is our way of thanking him for all his hospitality while we are here in Carnarvon.
Just in case you were wondering we have sailed a total distance so far of 11,831Nautical Miles since departing Long Beach California USA.
Mike
